5 Reasons We Left Ready-To-Wear Behind

After lots of chat about the SS21' collections this week, we have been reflecting back on our ready-to-wear careers. Something shifted for us this season, it felt like we enjoyed the shows the way we did before we worked in the industry.

So what triggered our pivot to home sewing? As new(ish) sewists on the block, we thought it was about time we shared our reasons for doing what we do. Explain our move over from Ready-to-Wear...

1.     We Relocated

erm, yup. Not sexy and inspiring at all. But there was a major dose of practicality involved in us setting up a business. When we moved away from London, we were ultimately leaving behind a more vibrant job market. The UK's fashion hub.  

Despite the creativity and hoards of talent in Scotland, there isn't the same number, or types, of industry opportunities. It's a very different jobs market, and our little black books of contacts was pretty London centric.

We have both dabbled in a few things since moving home to Scotland and met some lovely people and great companies. Susan continues to draft patterns for some ace independent designers. The thing we kept talking about when we caught up, was that we missed collaborating on projects we personally connected with. 

Here we are in a pub on Glasgow’s Queen Street out together for the first time as tired parents. We took this selfie in 2017, it was one of the first times we talked about working together…

We'd be lying if we said that we hadn't both had conversations about moving south again. We do miss London, but the west coast has a hold on us for now. One thing we both agreed on is that we'd like to build a business that we can take with us, no matter what location life leads us to next.

2. We Like Sewing

We really like sewing. But when we worked in ready to wear, it was pretty rare for us to sew for ourselves. When you're working in garments, talking seam types and fabric weights all week long, the thought of whipping out your sewing machine to make yourself something on the weekend, almost felt like work. Somewhere along the way, we detached ourselves from the making, and we both missed it. 

Susan has always sewn toiles for designers, but rarely took the time to make anything for herself. 

For the most part, the creative process doesn’t change whether we are working on a RTW garment or a home sewing pattern. Design and development is one of the most interesting parts of what we do. The main difference is, with home sewing we get to make clothes at the end of it.  Clothes we can sew perfectly for our own bodies and tastes. We have both found we are making time for ourselves to sew, that we never did before; its relaxing and enjoyable.

Our sewing skills have massively improved in the last year. Our retrospective appreciation of sample machinists has grown alot too!

3. Variety

As Nic progressed in her career she moved from small to medium and then a large high-street store. With each progression, the company got larger and the job rolls tighter.

In ready-to-wear, Susan worked in one area: patterns. She worked directly with design and machinists and alongside factories and production but didn't get involved in most areas of the product cycle. With home sewing patterns she gets to be involved in all aspects of the development, which is really fulfilling.

We are also loving the variety of tasks and learning required on the business and marketing side. It's fun. There is not a moment to get bored.

4. We Took Our Fashion Blinkers Off

Immersed in the fashion bubble, it was too easy to become another cog in the big multi-seasonal fashion beast. Without really stopping to consider.

After we left uni, we were both swept up in the bright lights of the big city. We worked for peanuts to begin with, worked hard to build our skills and had loads of fun doing so. It took years for us to question the system we worked within, much longer to realise that it wasn't the only option.

When we were planning what we wanted Homer + Howells to be, we couldn't quite switch-off from the idea of retailing a collection. It was the only way we had known. Struggling with so many issues that stem from traditional fashion retail models, we played with how Made-to-Order could work for us. We had been searching for business models that didn't rely on stockpiling product. Products that would lose their value before the season was out. And we wanted to be able to work closely with our supply chain. Made-to-order is something we might come back to later.  For now, we’re sticking to patterns.

We sort of knew fashion retail didn't fit any more, but it took a wee while to imagine ourselves as part of a new community.  We have been blown away by how welcoming and friendly the sewing community has been.

Susan backstage during fashion week

5. Creating Versatile Designs For A Wider Audience

We wanted to have full control over all areas of our product, who it's for, how it fits and the size range.

In ready-to-wear we helped make beautiful or fashionable clothes. Not all of these would fit us. Or maybe the fabric choice wouldn't be to our taste. Or perhaps we couldn't afford them. We worked hard for a long time with brands we were passionate about, but on clothes that were not for everyone. Or for many.

Working on products that we are able to use personally, and tailor and personalise to suit is fantastic. Helping others do the same is even better.

Here we are at a Homer + Howells fit session deciding on pocket size

There is life beyond fashion. In RTW, everything is needed yesterday. Now, it’s about our schedules and doing our bit to mix up the fashion and sewing worlds.  

Nic + Susan x